A journey from dishwasher to culinary maestro

Update: 2024-07-21 10:58 IST

Unlike many celebrity chefs, Jacob Jan Boerma enjoyed the rare privilege of dining at Michelin-starred restaurants as a child. His parents, who were in the shoe business, had refined tastes and could afford these expensive outings. These experiences unknowingly ignited Boerma’s ambition to become a chef and own a celebrated establishment.

Though his parents dismissed his aspirations, calling him “stupid” and doubting he would ever make decent money, Boerma pursued his dream with determination. He began his culinary journey at 16, starting as a dishwasher and developing his palate by tasting leftover sauces. This humble beginning was his first introduction to the fine art of creating exquisite flavors.

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Born in Austria but raised in the Netherlands, Boerma eventually presided over De Leest, a Michelin three-star restaurant in Vaassen, The Netherlands. This prestigious accolade, which he held for 18 years until 2020, is a rare honor that only a few chefs worldwide achieve in their lifetime.

During a recent visit to India, Boerma headlined a fine-dining program, “Rendezvous by The Chambers: The Culinary Chronicles,” at the Taj Mahal Palace in Mumbai and the Taj Mahal in New Delhi. These events allowed Mumbai and Delhi’s elite to experience his unique culinary philosophy, which blends global influences with locally sourced ingredients. Boerma emphasized innovative flavors that respect tradition, and he was particularly impressed by the umami-rich bheja fry he tasted in Mumbai.

In 2020, Boerma closed De Leest to pursue a global ambition: collaborating with rising young chefs to create Michelin-starred restaurants. His ventures include The White Room in Amsterdam, Fine Fleur in Antwerp, and SMAAK in Yokohama, Japan. “I am now in the business of creating concept restaurants,” Boerma explained. “It is my mission to collaborate with young chefs, putting them on the podium alongside experienced chefs.”

Boerma’s journey is a testament to following one’s passion. Running a Michelin three-star restaurant involves immense pressure, as the stars are reviewed annually, and any guest could be an anonymous Michelin inspector. “It is more difficult than winning an Olympic medal, but I need this pressure,” Boerma said. His typical workweek spans from 8 a.m. to 11 p.m., with weekends dedicated to planning the week ahead. “The pressure makes me feel good. You cannot reach the top without pressure.”

Boerma’s focus on personalized service is a key element of his success. “The personal touch makes the real difference,” he noted. His visit to India, his first, introduced him to new ingredients and flavors, including local garlic and the challenge of working without imported Parmigiano Reggiano due to Indian food laws. However, Boerma embraces local sourcing. “I always source my ingredients from the area around the restaurant,” he said.

Despite his numerous accolades, Boerma remains an untiring explorer of tastes. His journey to discover unfamiliar flavors and new ways to express them is far from over. As he continues to innovate and inspire, Jacob Jan Boerma’s culinary adventure promises to delight food enthusiasts around the world for years to come.

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