What is the relevance of couture today?

Like so many fashion words, "couture" is a term that tends to be used very loosely. Translated from its French origins, the phrase means "high sewing".

In India Couture Week (ICW) is all of thirteen years old and is an annual not seasonal event. This year it will be in digital or virtual format and starts September 18th. If you think of high sewing, India is in many ways the global epicenter of couture. India's rich and diverse legacy of unique artisanship means that many of the finest pieces of couture are created at local export ateliers. From Armani to Valentino, European luxury houses look to India for their craftsmanship.

Couture shows play a very special role in the prestige and perception of a luxury house and sometimes are less about profit. But then, they sell everything from lipsticks to bed linen. Right now, in the middle of a pandemic, you might be wondering how these very expensive bespoke dresses made for special occasions really matter?

In India, couture is the bread and butter for many designers. India as a country is known for its craftsmanship, all over the globe. Couture is a canvas where designers use their creative impetus, as a playground for fresh ideas whether it's motifs, embroidery, or inspirations. There are no real rules governing couture in India.

The Indian bridal market was estimated by KPMG to be worth around $50 billion in 2017 and grows at around 20 per cent every year. Only the US spends more on weddings than India. It is during the wedding season that Indians splurge on fine fashion and expensive jewelry, and this is the reason most international luxury brands want a base in India—they want a part of that spend. And as gowns have now become accepted dress for the reception function or the welcome dinner, they have managed to nibble into some of the pie.

However the big fat Indian wedding is going to have to go on a diet as it marries itself with the "New Normal." With many designers being dependent on couture for their business it of course is in their interest to push the concept of big weddings. Though many young brides are looking for something intimate, a new grandness. Of course weddings are still happening, while they are not the multi day extravaganzas there once more--- there is still a demand for 'the dress'. But can it really be the driving force of a whole industry any longer?

Couture's intrinsic artisanal nature makes it an important part of the "Vocal for Local" movement and it's timeless approach to fashion is a fit with the current drive towards sustainability.

So, there are lots of reasons to believe couture will remain relevant. ICW's digital format is not only practical in these times of social distancing but also pushes designers to embrace new age practices.

This edition could prove to be a turning point and bring new joy to couture, if and only if designers embrace these new conversations and do not just rely on the traditional bridal market.