Why every man needs a white-dial watch

Old-school rules maintained that when denuded of your traditional signs of wealth and ebullience – a well-cut suit; a seven-fold silk tie; whole-cut Berlutis in a tobacco shade no one would dare inhale – the only way to show the world your worth was to wear a large, preferably bling watch.

Well, guess what, the world is looking for its fun elsewhere, meaning the traditional "beach watch" – pressurized to 300 meters, fitted with a garish green rubber strap and possibly containing three or more complications that no one needs while paddling in the Med – is currently excessive. Instead of investing in that perennial partner in time, the white-dialed watch, for the ultimate evocation of upscale down timing this summer. To begin with, it earns its hold on an otherwise bare wrist(mangles are so Desert Trip), but better yet, it departs from the current trend of dark and moody dials (green, navy, meteorite) in favor of something far more redolent of rambunctious days on the Riviera. At this level, water resistance is a starting point for conversation rather than a priority for Top Trumps: aim for something svelte and adequately proof of sun and sand and leave the rest to fortune. After all, if not a series of happy incidents, what is life?

The iconic Mondaine SBB models were never improved for dial-based readability, designed to be visible from the far end of a Swiss station platform. The choice of smooth-operator-with-a-hint-of-cool style. The essence of Mondaine, £149.

Tissot operates at johnlewis.com if it is not broken, do not fix it with its super-svelte collection of heritage. Bold, age-correct numerals and the original logo raise this bright spot on the horizon – just like its brilliant silver dial. Petite Seconde Tissot Heritage, £825. Tissotwatches.com

Talk about his Speedmaster Moon Watch this summer (for obvious reasons) but don't forget that Commander Bond is currently wearing a Seamaster, the original sea-going vessel for the ever-improving (now Metas-certified) movements of Omega since 1948. 150M Co-Axial Master Chronometer Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra, £4,000. omegawatches.com

Few will travel above (let alone below) the waves with this great complication of the world's oldest watch brand in continuous production, but we can guarantee its ability to turn heads on the ground – it was one of this year's SIHH stars. Overseas Vacheron Constantin Perpetual Ultra-Thin Calendar, £66,500. Vacheron-constantin.com

This year's major launch at the Swiss watch fairs marked the beginning of a new dawn for Le Brassus, an audacious bid to place its heritage at the heart of a completely new collection. Running from a three-handed model with a date to a superlative minute-repeating supersonnerie, expect to follow further iterations in the years ahead. Code 11:59 of Audemars Piguet, £23,800. audemarspiguet.com