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Symbol of timeless comfort – Isukapalli
The quintessential plaid towels in Southern households – that evoke a feeling of comfort, reliability and home – are the blessing of the Isukapalli cluster.
The quintessential plaid towels in Southern households – that evoke a feeling of comfort, reliability and home – are the blessing of the Isukapalli cluster. The patriarchs lounging in lungis along with the matriarchs stocking up on sheets, this unique gingham design will always remain synonymous to ease.
A tiny town in the Guntur district of Andhra Pradesh, Isukapalli establishes its presence with the resounding music of the looms. With a legacy of over two centuries, the Isukapalli cluster has been "the top of the mind recall" in almost every household - especially since the establishment of its society in 1938 - for home furnishings such as towels, napkins, curtains, bedsheets and even upholstery.
Back in the day, the Isukapalli fabric was also popular for shirting and sarees, however, since 1976, it has been limited only to the good old lungis and home furnishings segment. One of its kind, not just in its design, but also in the variety that it brings, the Isukapalli cluster will never go out of demand. Especially, their 20x40 count cotton lungis, have remained to be a reflexive choice amongst most households. Perhaps, aside from the inherent comfort that comes with its lungis, there must be something mysteriously magnetic about the Isukapalli weave that makes it a symbol of the said comfort.
When it comes to their speciality, Isukapalli is admired for its double cloth weaving technique – which one would find especially visible in napkins and towels. This double cloth weave is achieved using a jacquard loom that in turn brings the same look on both sides of the final fabric. Perhaps, it's a metaphor for how real it is – inside out. In other words, what one sees is what one gets. From people to fabrics, doesn't such homogeneity make it all the more desirable?
Today, as mentioned earlier, the demand for Isukapalli, fortunately, remains to be high, and on the rise. Thanks to the younger generations, they are growing more sensitive towards handlooms and are demonstrating growing interest in slow and sustainable handcrafted goods. That said, the weavers' detachment from this cluster seems a tad discouraging at this point. The subsequent generations of the current weavers are not able to have so much faith, given the low pay associated with it. Hopefully, the pay scale mirrors the demand and helps propel itself back on the track of growth.
If you are one among those that may be wondering where to find this poetic comfort in print and fabric, you may want to make a quick visit to government-owned shops. While one may get carried away by the fancy of Turkish towels, Isukapalli comes dressed in an unassuming design, and pleasantly surprises you by touching you beyond your skin. In a world of mill-made sarees and machine-made furnishings, aren't we all blessed to still have the option to have hand-woven versions of the same? Made with labour, love and care? On that note, consider writing your household in the name of handlooms and handicrafts. It will not only look great but will also mirror that your heart is in the right place.
(The writer is a handloom and handicraft enthusiast. She is also a member of crafts council. Instagram handle: Rajeswariramachander)
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