Goa Gumption

India's famous chef Sanjeev Kapoor discusses Goan dishes that have made a mark far beyond their humble origins

Thinking of Goa, I remember the perfect weekend holiday we had in Goa some time ago. It was a blissfully enjoyable time with friends and family. The delicious highlight of the holiday was the culinary feasts we enjoyed. We had landed on the Goa airport around noontime; hotel pick up service was prompt.Usual hotel checking-in formalities followedand then we were directly ushered into the lunch room.

The divine aromatic rendezvous had started much before we actually got to feast our eyes upon the astounding spread of Goan delights. The fantastic setting and warm inviting food, I was impressed! It would be impossible to cover the entire exhaustive menu in a single blog. Thus, I have chosen to focus on some traditional specialties that are slowly becoming rare.

Let’s start out with the appealing appetisers. The sheer varietyforced me to think beyond the chilli calamari or the batter dipped fried prawns. Prawn kismuri was one dish I enjoyed the most. It was a semi-dry dish made up of tiny (sun dried) shrimps, roasted with fried green onions, green chillies, whole Goan spices and garnished with fresh grated coconut. Starting with this starter was a good idea but I just could not stop eating it!

Speaking of food, drinks are the inevitable companions. When in Goa running in the fenny spirit is obvious. Fenny is distilled from the cashew apple that grows just below the cashew nut. Cashew Fenny is also called KaajuFeni is a world famous alcoholic beverage. It is said that fenny can get you high in no time at all. Being a teetotaler I wouldn’t know so, I look past the drink offerings quickly and headed on to the next item.

The next item is for the pork lovers. Goans love their pork and if GoanVindaloo is the only Goan pork dish you know, then expand your gustatory gamut and try out the Pork Aadmaas (Aad means bones and Maas means meat)-it’s a Goan Catholic specialty, here referring to use of pork ribs.

But let me warn you this dish is not for the faint of heart. Aadmaas has a fiery red curry, which is prepared using authentic Goan spices and low-heat cooking method is employed that goes on for several hours. This method ensures that the bones have imparted their prime gelatinous goodness. Try this one out, but at your own risk… is all I can say!

Aadmaas is traditional eaten with Goan Sannas. These are slightly sweet and spongy delights made from ground rice, coconut milk, toddy, pinch of sugar and few drops of divine palm vinegar. Some of you, who have tasted Mangalorian Sanna will discover that these do not have the sour undertones. Generally, these traditional heavenly discs are not served on most of the Goa’s popular beaches or tourist destinations. To try this one out, you will need to investigate a bit and ask around. I just got lucky!

My vegetarian friends weren’t as lucky but even they are aware that when in Goa, going the non-veg way is only natural. Vegetarians can opt for the parboiled rice and tangy kokum curry-SoimiremCodi. A dish called ChouliRos made up of the black-eyed peas in a coconut curry was much appreciated by my veggie friends. They also liked the accompaniment- Goan Chilli pickle. Well rounded delicious preparation that leaves quite the impression.

Last but not the least “desserts” Bibinca is something that is easily available anywhere in Goa. Given an option try out Bolo Sans Rival-a slice of sweet sublime! Imagine ground cashew nuts dacquoise, sinfully coated in rich butter cream frosting.

What a finish to a spectacular meal I must say. This happy recollection has got me into a nostalgic holiday mood and I fully intend to plan a trip soon to Goa to unwind. In the meantime, I have put together a special Goan recipe that everyone can enjoy and a must try this festive season. Try out thisdelectable Goan fish curry with red rice- recipe and experience a carnival of tingle taste buds.

GOAN FISH CURRY WITH RED RICE
Ingredients
Pomfret or any flat fish
(400 grams each, medium size) 2
Oil 2 tbsps
Small onion, chopped 1
Green chillies, slit and halved 2
Salt to taste
Malt vinegar 1 tbsp
For paste
Cumin seeds 2 tsps
Coriander seeds 2 tbsps
Whole dry red chillies 6
scraped coconut ½ cup
Ginger, chopped 2-inch
Garlic cloves, chopped 15
Tamarind pulp 2 tbsps

Method

• Clean, wash and cut each fish into five to six pieces.
• Dry roast cumin seeds, coriander seeds and whole dry red chillies.
• Make a fine paste of all the roasted spices along with scraped coconut, ginger, garlic and tamarind with a little water.
• Apply half of the ground paste to fish.
• Heat oil in a pan. Add onions and sauté till golden brown. Add green chillies and cook on medium heat for three minutes. Stir constantly.
• Add the remaining ground paste and stir well. Sauté for five minutes till a nice aroma is given out. Add one and a half cups of water. Bring to a boil and then add the marinated fish pieces and salt. Cook on low heat for about five minutes or till fish is just done.
• Stir in vinegar and serve hot with steamed red rice.