In love with the legacy

Kanjivaram, the authentic tradition of Kancheepuram is a household name in South India, so much so that there is every kind of silk saree being sold as Kanjivaram in its many so called variants at every nook and corner. Chennai-based designer Ahalya S, a connoisseur of the tradition fosters extreme passion towards upholding the true quality of Kanjivaram, bordering on devotion.

She founded an exclusive line of silk sarees custom weaved at Kancheepuram - ‘Kanakavalli’ – retailed from a flagship store at ‘Kingsley’, the majestic, old, family home that she restored. Kanakavalli according to her is an expression of creativity that upholds the known and loved legacy. She plans to bring her curated line of selected silks to Taj Krishna in Hyderabad on June 17 and 18. She shares her journey

How did your tryst with Kanjivaram begin and lead to Kanakavalli and Ahalya brands?
For nearly 12 years now, I’ve been associated with the business of sarees and jewellery. About 18 months ago, in an attempt to create for the Kanjivaram, a brand that did justice to its form, format, possibilities, potential and the buying experience, I launched Kanakavalli, a curated line of Kanjivarams.

I’ve always believed that we are what we wear and looking good and feeling good have always been important for me. The jewellery brand, Ahalya Bespoke is essentially a bespoke brand wherein I collaborate with women who have a sense of identity and are keen to create for themselves jewellery that does justice to who they are what they believe in. Both these brands are similar not only because they are my creations but also because they share a common ethos - they believe in the classic but are very relevant to the contemporary context.

You seem to have mastered the art of bringing Kanjivaram to everyday wear – how do you do it?
I really believe that the Kanjivaram has the ability to adapt itself to different contexts; as a statement of style and power at the same time, it oozes a sense of the classic and yet has the possibility of being very modern. Personally, I like to keep re-inventing the way I wear it; either by pairing it with an interesting blouse or playing with the idea of accessories - layering it or by the act of underplaying. I can tell you, it has almost always worked!

What according to you does Kanakavalli bring to Kanjivaram sarees?
Kanakavalli is an ode to the Kanjivaram; it attempts to celebrate the very spirit and form of the Kanjivaram, both in terms of the content as well as the presentation and the very experience in which the act of buying the Kanjivaram occurs. Kanakavalli, for me, is that new hope that I am certain will change the very future of Kanjivaram and allow it to remain a go-to garment, irrespective of a very evolving, distracted world.

Kingsley looks as if it’s made for the grand legacy...how did you find such a perfect place?
In March last year, I was looking for a space to house my two brands; a space that would do true justice to the two essential ideas of luxury - space, and time.

A close friend called one afternoon and said he had found the perfect spot. So I decided to check it out. What I saw was like something from my dreams; picture-perfect. Of course, it was a thoroughly rundown bungalow but I saw the possibility of restoration, renovation, and renewal, and a studio that would enhance and enrich the brands that Kingsley would house.

You speak a lot about treating Kanjivaram well...can you elaborate?
The Kanjivaram is a classic garment, woven by artisans who bring to the table, talent, skill set, legacy, tradition, rigour and culture. Obviously then, my role as a curator and seller of the Kanjivaram is very important. I believe that that legacy and lineage must be revered and that reverence must be captured in the way the Kanjivaram is showcased, and sold.

What do you plan to get to Hyderabad?
Hyderabad is a great city for the Kanjivaram. This exhibition we intend to bring a range that is very representative of the brand - bridal wear, classics, experimental creations, soft silks, thread work sarees.

What are your future plans?
Plans are aplenty. I’m keen to grow the idea of bespoke in the world of jewellery, sensitise people to the possibilities of bespoke - to resurrect old jewellery, create new pieces, and thereby create a jewellery portfolio in a sense - in the world of jewellery. I’m also excited about the way Kanakavalli is growing; becoming top-of-mind recall among women who are proud of their roots but like to dress true to their contexts and ways of life. I’d like to become, in a sense, an ambassador for the Kanjivaram.

By: Rajeshwari Kalyanam