Alampur, a neglected temple town

Everywhere the main structure and surroundings show no sign of upkeep or preservation. So pathetic are the conditions, that these “in name only” boards, stand there as a sad reminder of what needs to be done and is not

Every monument or World Heritage site of the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI)) has the same story to tell, barring a few exceptions. I am totally convinced after seeing one beautiful monument after another, be it a temple, tomb, church or synagogue, in a dilapidated condition.

We find proud proclamations about the uniqueness of the place and a brief history of its antiquity but no traces of intent on ground. Everywhere the main structure and surroundings show no sign of upkeep or preservation. So pathetic are the conditions, that these “in name only” boards, stand there as a sad reminder of what needs to be done and is not.

The temple town of Alampur, which stands at the confluence of the Krishna and Tungabhadra rivers and is referred to as “Dakshina Kashi” and “Navabrahmeshwara Teertha” is no exception. Part of the newly formed Jogulamba Gadwal district in the State of Telangana, the temple mentioned in the ancient Skanda Purana has as its principal deities Brahmeshwara and Jogulamba and is one of the “Ashtadasha Shakti Peethas” or 18 divine seats of the Mother Goddess. The mythology of “Daksha Yagna” and the self-immolation of Sati; Shiva’s consort is the origin of the story of the Shakti Peethas, which sprang at places where different parts of her body fell.

The Jogulamba or Yogamba temple is where Sati’s upper teeth fell and the black stone idol of the goddess with her tongue hanging out, attests this. Located on the border of Kurnool, which falls in the State of Andhra Pradesh, the temple is reached after traversing a winding, narrow muddy road.

An uneven open space serves as the parking area, which has an odd vehicle here and there. We spot the board of the Archaeological Survey of India, beggars seated in rows on either side of the temple entrance and stray pigs all around the complex.

We read about the history of Alampur that was under the Satavahanas, Ikshvakus of Nagarjunakonda, the Chalukyas, Rashtrakutas, Kakatiyas and Vijayanagara kings. The temple built in the style of the Chalukyas of Badami (who ruled between 650 and 750AD) houses the Navabrahma temples that majestically dot the skyline with intricate sculpture, pillars and archways in pink stone.

As we made our way past the slush and pigs, we saw a large number of monkeys swinging on branches of trees inside and perched precariously on dilapidated walls around several small shrines. These are beautiful structurally but a picture of neglect otherwise. There are no signs of regular rituals or worship. There is not a lamp or flower in sight near the idols in the outer shrines.

We move past the outer shrines and a Peepal tree to reach the main temple of Jogulamba, which is a recent construction. Since the temple was submerged in floods that ravaged the area some years ago, a new temple complex was built which, however, bears no comparison to the older temples. The original temples too had been relocated to a higher place when the area came under submergence due to the construction of the Srisailam Hydro-electric project, we are informed.

Even before we entered the temple we were in for a surprise…one adventurous monkey landed on an unprepared member from our group taking off his glasses and looking down mischievously from a long pole close by, cheekily waving its newly acquired possession at us.

As we were wandering what to do, a shopkeeper in the vicinity suggested that we buy a packet of biscuits from a store there and offer it to the monkey. As soon as the monkey spotted the biscuit packet, it came rushing down, picked it up and dropped the glasses. We let out a sigh of relief but couldn’t help wondering if the shopkeeper had employed this creature as his salesman.

The priest, who had just attended to a local politician’s family, was chatting up his friend and it was left to a peon in uniform to inform us that we would have to wait for an hour if we were to see any ritual. Dry leaves strewed all over, uncaring staff, signs of neglect and decay and monkeys on the lookout for anything interesting… there was no way anyone could wait in the temple.

We looked at the stunning black idol and tried to spot the tongue and vaguely saw glimpses as there was no light, no lamp to illumine her. Well… that’s a heritage site for you! I couldn’t help but think of the gold and diamond ornaments worth crores of rupees donated by the Chief Minister K Chandrasekhara Rao to the Lord of Seven Hills recently and the uproar it caused in the national media.

What about temples like this, which are historically, architecturally and spiritually important? Who cares about their preservation? Neither those who put up boards about their importance nor those who claim to have powerful places under their jurisdiction. The Goddess herself has been removed to safety many times but the administration remains unmoved.

One can only chant “Ya devi sarva bhutheshu kriya rooopena samsthitha” (O goddess may you manifest as the energy behind action) and wait for those in power to wake up and act. Hopefully, they will preserve something they can never replicate.