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In My Grandmother’s House
The tharavad looked unchanged. Large and rambling, its simple, clean lines were typical of the older estate house. Velliammachi-my grandmother—lived here and was never alone, as she was always visited by one of her many children.
The tharavad looked unchanged. Large and rambling, its simple, clean lines were typical of the older estate house. Velliammachi-my grandmother—lived here and was never alone, as she was always visited by one of her many children.
My father, her fourth son, Rockichan, had moved to Bombay many years before to expand the newly started family rubber business. Now we would make this trip each summer to visit my father’s family after a week at my mother’s home in Alleppey.
We were greeted at the door by my father’s sister, Lucy kutty, who was visiting along with her children. Cousins from Coimbatore and Kottayam were also here, and the house bustled with life. My grandmother was resting, we were told on our way to her room across the large hall and past the chapel.
The walls were hung with framed photographs of ancestors, among them my grandfather. His imposing aristocratic features and fierce moustache belied the gentle, scholarly man that he had been.
Silently mouthing the familiar names, we trooped into my grandmother’s room and greeted her with folded hands ‘Easho mishiaku sthuthiayirikatte (Praise the Lord)’, and she replied, ‘Ippozhum, ennaikum (Now and always).’’
My grandmother—Kunju Mari— amma of Kodupadam—was no less impressive than her late husband. Clothed in the Syrian Christian chatta and mundu, she wore her smooth white hair scraped back into a bun at the nape of her neck. Large gold kunakkus adorned her earlobes.
Very much the matriarch, she had a regal bearing, and I was suddenly shy as she turned to hand me boiled sweets from the glass jar on her table. Lunch was served in the large dining room with men and younger children eating first.
Large dishes of soft red rice, platters of spicy fried beef, duck roast, and smaller dishes of fiery red fish curry and vegetables, jugs of buttermilk, and small bowls of pickles were served in two sets across the large table. On the sideboard were plates of cubedmango, sliced pineapple and fresh bananas.
My grandmother ate early with her sons and sons—in—law and then retired to her room. Latha and I preferred to eat with the women and wandered over later to the L—shaped room next to the dining room where my mothersat with the aunts and older cousins at a long trestle table. Here the conversation was lively. Recipes, news of marriages and deaths and scandalous stories were swapped across the table.
Shrimp Fry
Chemmeen Olathiathu
Serves 3 to 4
Ingredients
Medium or large shrimps, shelled and deveined 500g
Tender coconut pieces (optional)1 cup
Chilli powder 2 tbsp
Ground turmeic 1 tsp
Crushed black peppercorns ½ tsp
Curry leaves 8
Sliced fresh ginger 1 tsp
Water 1 cup
Coccum (2-inch), soaked in water 3 pieces
Salt 1 tsp
Coconut oil 5 tbsp
Sliced shallots 12
Sliced cloves garlic 6
Method
A Syrian Christian classic, this dish can he simmered and stir-fried until dry, or cooked briefly until it is left with a thick gravy. The coconut pieces absorb the flavour of the shrimps and should not be omitted likewise the coconut oil, possible. This recipe (omitting the coconut pieces) is also used for konju—-the delicious lobster from the backwaters of Kerala.
Serve with rice, spiced buttermilk and a vegetable thoran. I have also served it on toast for breakfast and in canapes as cocktail snacks, minus the coccum, of course.
Put all the ingredients, except the oil, shallots and garlic in a medium pot. Cook for 5 minutes over low shrimps are coated with the thick spice mixture.
Heat the oil in a medium skillet and fry the shallots and garlic until- Soft.
Add the cooked shrimps to this mixture, and stir—fry over low heat for 5 to 8 minutes, until the spiced shrimps are well fried.
Crab Fry
Njandu Pattichathu Olathiathu
Ingredients
Large crabs in the shell, cleaned and cutinto medium pieces 1.5 kg
Chilli powder 1 tsp
Ground coriander 2 tbsp
Ground turmeric ½ tsp
Crushed black peppercorns 1 tbsp
Sliced fresh ginger 1 tsp
Water 4 cups
Salt 1 tsp
Pieces coccum (2-inch)3
Cup oil ¼
Thinly sliced onion 4
Sliced cloves garlic 6
Curry leaves 8
Method
A family favourite, this is a perfect picnic food. I some times add a cup of coconut milk as the crabs are sautéed to get a thick gravy to mop up bread.
Do not make Crab Fry if you have a plane to catch—you need time (and a stack of paper napkins) to really savour this dish. This recipe can also be used for crabmeat. Serve with a salad and crusty bread.
Put the crabs in a large pot with the chilli powder, coriander, turmeric, pepper, ginger, water, salt and coccum. Mix well, cover and simmer over medium heat for 8 to 10 minutes, until only 1 cup of liquid remains. Set aside
ln a large skillet, heat the oil and fry the onions 2 minutes. Add the garlic and curry leaves and continue frying until the onions are lightly browned.
Add the cooked crabs along with the liquid and for 10 to 15 minutes, until the spice mixture has dried to athick paste and coated the crabs. Remove from heat.
NOTE: Add 1 cup of thick coconut milk if a gravy is required, stir and cook for 2 more minutes.
